Warp Knitting | Multibar raschel machines with a working width of 210" are premiered in India

KARL MAYER unveils its Multibar Lace series in India at one of its customers, Tee Pee Textiles, which is part of Zenith Silk Mills PVT Ltd., in Surat, on 26.05.2014

The ML series of raschel machines is setting the standard in the fashion sector, as well as in the production of traditional garments. With their gauge of E 24, these machines are catering for the continuing trend for light, delicate plain fabrics and lace. In a working width of 210", these best-selling machines from KARL MAYER are a must for producing saris in particular. The first wide-width multibar raschel machine was delivered to India recently – to the warp knitting mill, Tee Pee Textiles, in Surat, in the state of Gujarat. Tee Pee Textiles and KARL MAYER are inviting any company that is interested to the inauguration and demonstration of this new machine on 26 May. KARL MAYER is expecting customers to attend from all over India. The Managing Director, Arno Gärtner, and Oliver Mathews, the Sales Director of the Warp Knitting Business Unit, will welcome the guests.
During the demonstration, the ML machine will be producing two different sari fabrics, each consisting of four panels next to each other in a gauge of E 24.

Highly productive with a width of 210"
The machines in the ML series have an excellent cost:benefit ratio. At a width of 134", they can reach speeds of up to 900min-1, and the machines having a width of 210" are extremely productive, especially when producing sari fabrics – four 50"-wide fabric panels can be produced next to each other simultaneously. The working width of 210" is therefore ideal for producing this traditional Indian style of dress.
In addition to being fast, the multibar raschel machines are also user-friendly, accurate and flexible. The pattern can be changed with very little time and effort. This enables customers to produce even small batches efficiently, and react quickly to changing market trends.
Traditional Indian designs on tulle net – the recipe for success when producing saris
The fabrics produced on the Multibar Lace machines are delicate and more or less open, and feature continuous net grounds. The pattern elements, which are usually floral and decorative, are worked into the ground in sweeping lines to create striking effects. Typical of sari production are simple tulle grounds and, for example, Paisley patterns with sequin embroidery or large decorative flowers and leaves with a folklore look. The panels can be decorated with a narrow, curved border – to produce an attractive hem without the need for any making-up.
Source: Karl Mayer News

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Warp Knitting | Metallic Yarn Used on Warp Knitting Fabric

Metallic yarns are by and large made from strips of a synthetic film, such as polyester, coated with metallic particles. In one more method, aluminum foil strips are sandwiched amid layers of film. Metallic yarns may also be made by twisting a strip of metal around a natural or man-made core yarn, producing a metal surface. It is made of thin film and supported by nylon or polyester or rayon yarn according to the type of yarn.
Metallic yarns start as rolls of films or laminations 30" or wider. These wide rolls are slit into narrow rolls 2" to 5" wide. These narrow rolls are gang slit across their whole width to micro widths from 1/128" (.0078") and wider and then taken up on plastic spools for shipment to textile mills. There is a rainbow of colors available from red, blue, green, etc. to gold and silver. Brilliant, reflective colors which add decorative patterns to fabrics.
Many metallic yarns  knitted into fashionable Raschel and Jacquard fabrics . For added variety, metallic yarns are twisted with other fibers such as wool, nylon, cotton and synthetic blends to construct yarns which add novelty effects to the end cloth or trim. They create all fabrics more eye-catching by adding sparkle.
At one time or another, metallic yarns have been used in just about every variety of textiles. Metallic Yarn is used in manufacturing knitting wears, knit and woven fabrics, embroideries, labels etc. Some end uses have been in automotive fabrics, television front fabrics, bath towels and face cloths, clerical vestments, bathing suits, hosiery, upholstery, hat bands, etc. Also in theatrical clothing, theatre back drops, doll clothing, banners and uniforms.

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Warp Knitting | Active Pattern beam drive for high speed lace machines developed by Karl Mayer

Karl Mayer company has developed an active pattern beam drive for its high-speed lace machines which consists of a tension controlled yarn delivery system.This innovative control principle has already been used in practise by customers operating lace raschel machines. The system consist of a yarn-tension controlled yarn delivery system and can be use with all pattern beams.It is based on the tried and tested servo system,which has been successfully used for many years for driving the string bars.A new and improved version is currently being tested.The changes that are incorporated in this improved version relate to use of a new type of motor and replacing the existing friction control system with toothed wheel for power transmission.

Passive pattern yarn feed

In passive pattern yarn feed, the pattern beams run on ball bearings and are driven by the yarn let-off system at the knitting point, a solution which Karl Mayer says has its limitations at high machine speeds. Despite the use of balancing units, the physically induced mass inertia of the longitudinal shafts, together with the yarn warps which are arranged in a row, is said to be so great that it can cause 

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Warp Knitting | Repairing of SU Aggregate Pattern Drive

Repairing  and Mounting Instruction  for SU Aggregate.
(V-Gear ,P-Magnet)

In order to avoid too long stop of the machine when pattern aggregate is fails,you may put this pattern aggregate to operation again with the help of this mounting instructions:
The individual steps of mounting are subdivided as follows;

1. Demount of pattern aggregate.
2. Exchange and adjustment of  drive or intermediate wheel.
3. Mount guiding elements (guides and slides piece).
4. Mounting and adjustment of the switching and locking lever.
5. Mount distribution plate and piston rod.
6. Verify distribution plate and measure out magnetic attraction ability.

Auxiliary means for disassemble or mounting respectively;
Tools,sliding caliper,thickness gauge, spring balance and magnet tester (setting gauge for drive wheels can b

Important : Its absolutely necessary to observe the following prescriptions.In order to avoid any damage of pattern aggregate during mounting and disassembling work,please use rubber or plastic mallet.
In order to avoid any difficulties when assembling the pattern aggregate after demounting ,please take care of each dismounted parts being deposited separately and assorted to its appropriate fixing elements,such as distance washer,bearing bush etc,according to demounting sequence.
e made available upon request).

Mechanical and Electrical Switching Elements of Pattern Aggregate with Permanent Magnets.

1 =  distribution plate.
2 =  carrying handle.
3 =  magnets.
4 =  hand grip
5 =  guide pieces.
6 =  slides pieces.
7 =  T-shaped guide ledge.
8 =  locking lever.
9 =  piston rods (switch units).
10= stroke.
11= switch lever.
12= right carrier wall.
13= left carrier wall.
14= drive unit ( drive and intermediate wheels).

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SU Aggregate Pattern Drive for Multibar Warp Knitting Machines

Warp Knitting Machine |Although new generation of multibars warp knitting machines has been released several year ago equipped  with electronic pattern drive used Servo motor such like JL 65/1 F, ML and FL series from Karl Mayer,however existence from old machine type such like
MRPJ 42/1,MRSEJ 73/1 SU and others types which is used SU (summary drive) for the pattern drive are still a lot  for used warp knitting machines.

SU drive (totalizing drive)

The SU drive is electronically driven and thus enables a pattern change in a very short time. The prerequisite is the elaboration of the pattern on a pattern computer. The pattern data is written on a floppy disk in a machine readable format and transferred to the working memory of the knitting machine by means of a loading station.
The SU drive controlled via the machine computer controls the shog movement of the guide bars as follows:
In the controlling unit 6 displacement rollers change the position of single sliding pieces with the pitch 1, 2,4, 8, 16 and 16 which – via combination – enable a total shog movement of up to 47 needles.
The individual displacement rollers are selected by the machine computer and put into operation, their sum
(SU drive) resulting in the shog movement. The maximum needle jump during an underlap is 16 needles.
2 guide bars can be controlled with one controlling unit. There are several kinds of units with 5, 6 or 7 displacement rollers, depending on the respective machine requirements.

Advantages:

•  fast pattern change

•  unlimited pattern repeats

•  fast pattern access

•  no storage system required as in case of chain links

 Disadvantages:

•  limited machine speed of 600 min-1

•  higher purchase costs

please see also :how to repairing SU Aggregate on the next posting.

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Yarn Guide Finger on Multibar Warp Knitting Machines

Yarn guide finger is the part of guide bars or pattern bars used on Raschel multibars warp knitting machines.
There are two types of guide bars are used in Raschel multibars warp knitting machines,the first type is similar to the one used in Tricot machines,with guide cast in 1 inch per units,fully threaded and used for ground fabric.
The second type of guide bars are used to apply the pattern onto the fabric.These bars usually required only one thread for each repeat usually called with pattern guide finger,so that only a few yarns are threaded  across the whole width of such bar.
There are many different types and sizes of pattern guide fingers used in multibars warp knitting machines,some times use also tube guide finger which are specially designed to be used with bulky and fancy yarns.
The detail of marking many different yarn guide finger which used in Raschel multibars machine can be download here  at pdf file.

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Warp Knitting | RJPC 4F from Karl Mayer

Modified Tulle Lapping in The 4 Needle Technique for The RJPC 4 F from Karl Mayer

The product developers at KARL MAYER have always been keen to generate to new impulses in this field, and showed their latest designs for the net curtain grounds produced on the RJPC 4F.

Another variation of the three-and four-needle tulle patterning technique has now been
developed. This involves working a modified tulle lapping in the four-needle technique,
is therefore produced using the 4 NT tulle pattern disc, and increases the range of
designs that can be produced on this lightweight, transparent textile.
A key feature of the patterning technology of this new lapping is that, in comparison with
the 3 NT tulle lapping, the jacquard bar ties-in during its stitch-forming process by an extra needle spacing.

The attached lapping legend and lapping sheet show this quite clearly.
By changing the lapping, in this way, the well-known piezo grounds, which are based on a pillar stitch/inlay construction, can now also be produced, in conjunction with the well-known tulle lapping produced by the guide bars.
This is part of a series of three different ground tables, which were compiled from KARL MAYER's FOTA 6, 6 and 7 ground tables, and illustrate the unique level
of patterning flexibility. The jacquard yarns float in different ways on the ground to create pixel effects, strict, graphic zigzag designs,different rectangular shapes,diamond patterns, or simple, tiny dots on the ground. The pattern elements are highlighted extremely effectively to create a discreet relief effect.
If required, the three ground tables can be obtained from KARL MAYER's Pattern Department.
The clearly visible honeycomb structure of the ground creates a different appearance to fabric based on a pillar stitch/inlay construction. If this always has to be the same despite using different piezo grounds, the repeat of the ground must always, begin at starting stitch "A" of the lapping repeat.
From the point of view of the lapping, the honeycomb tulle covers a length repeat of 2x3,i.e. six stitches.
Since by the nature,the piezo grounds have different repeat lengths,the appearance of the fabric can be change by starting at the wrong point.
If the fabric appearance always to be same and correlate exactly with the appearance of the original ground table,the starting row in the lengthwise repeat of the piezo ground should always be set at the starting stitch "A" of the tulle ground lapping.

Summary

Using the 4 NT tulle pattern has increased the lapping and patterning posibilities available to designers,and tulle fabrics can be now produced with even wider range of the special effects.traditional patterns with a new twist.

to the lapping legend:Colour,construction and lapping legend 4NT tulle

OLD
T=peg low = needle left
H=peg high = needle rigth

NEW
L=piezo left = needle left
R=piezo right = needle rigth

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